Jamdani, a fine muslin textile, has been produced for centuries in South Rupshi, Narayanganj, Bangladesh. Originally known as Dhakai, it gained popularity under the Mughal Empire as Jamdani. Often referred to as Dhakai Jamdani, this cotton fabric with vibrant patterns is intricately woven in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on handlooms. Essential to Bengali women’s traditions, Jamdani sarees represent a rich history and heritage in the region. These six-yard wonders encapsulate centuries of culture and tradition, offering women a versatile expression of elegance, demureness, attractiveness, and practicality.
Historical Roots
The term “Jamdani” has Persian roots, originating from the words “jam,” signifying flower, and “Dani,” meaning vase. This name symbolically represents the exquisite floral patterns adorning these stunning sarees . It is believed that the tradition of Jamdani have roots predating Muslim influence. The Arthasastra (300 AD) mentions Vanga’s delicate textiles. Referred to in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea and by Arab, Chinese, and Italian travelers, four fine fabrics existed in ancient Vanga and Pundra. Bengal’s textile excellence is noted from the 1st century A.D. ‘Dukul’ fabric, possibly later renamed Jamdani, existed during the Muslim period. The art flourished during Mughal rule, with Dhaka district villages becoming hubs. European, Iranian, Armenian, and later American traders sought Bengal muslins. Dhaka muslin’s golden age thrived under the Mughals, influencing European and American homes in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Intricate Weaving Process
Jamdani is a complex handloom weave known for its rich motifs applied using discontinuous weft technique. Threads of gold and silver are intricately woven to create patterns on fine fabric, with additional motifs added manually for a floating design effect, making Jamdani unique.
Jamdani weavers work with 100-300 discontinuous weft threads, weaving meticulously by hand through warp threads. They typically weave about a quarter to one inch of fabric per day, requiring between six months to three years to complete a Jamdani sari, depending on design intricacy. A pair of weavers can spend 10 hours a day on this intricate process.
Challenges Faced
The challenge involves two main aspects. Firstly, on a socio-economic front, the goal is to establish handloom as a sustainable grassroots endeavor that provides weavers and related trades with a consistent and viable source of income, departing from its current status as a low-paying and sporadic sector. The second aspect focuses on infusing creative and aesthetic ideas into the weaving community’s mindset. The aim is to align this handloom with the lifestyle, particularly the young, well-traveled, global trendsetters in the fashion industry who serve as ambassadors for their nation and its distinctive textile heritage.
Another issue is distorting traditional handloom techniques by imposing modern alterations can lead to the dilution of the art form’s authenticity and essence, risking its cultural integrity and historical significance. It is essential to preserve the traditional methods and materials to maintain the true beauty and legacy of these intricate textiles like Dhakai Sharees.
Besides this, middlemen in the handloom industry often play a significant role in connecting weavers to markets but can sometimes exploit their position by offering low prices to artisans. This intermediary system can lead to unfair compensation for the craftsmen, affecting their livelihood and overall well-being.
Proposed Solution
To preserve traditional Jamdani designs while exploring new markets, supporting artisans to develop their own designs. Initiatives like duty removal on specific yarns, weavers’ support centers, and fair trade practices are crucial for handloom sustainability. Experts emphasizes on large NGO and government support for weavers’ centers, highlighting Jamdani’s role as a national heritage with global appeal. In the era of eco-friendliness, preserving handloom traditions is vital for enduring quality. .
Efforts and Recognition
Recognized as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, preserving Jamdani is paramount for sustaining livelihoods and rare skills. Efforts to promote intergenerational transmission of weaving skills ensure the continuity of this art form, safeguarding its legacy for future generations.
During the time of Pakistan, weavers didn’t get much help, which made their work difficult. But in the late ’70s and early ’80s, Kumudini, Aarong, and Aranya worked hard to bring back Jamdani. We want to revive Jamdani in its original form with the help of organizations like Radiant Institute of Design and others. The demand for quality Jamdani sarees has gone up because it represents luxury. I think setting up support centers for weavers is important to help them improve their work and benefit from these efforts.